Goutte-d'Or: the hidden gem
Visite d’un quartier méconnu

The Goutte-d'Or neighbourhood boasts a mixed population, buzzing streets and more. Alumni went on a tour to discover this neighbourhood in full blossom.

In the shade of the Holy Heart

At the foot of the hill of Montmartre, in the shade of its celebrity, the neighbourhood of Goutte-d’Or (literally "Gold Drop") maintains a nefarious reputation: a ghetto of Paris, the place of drifters, a slum... But what if it was a hidden gem? This is what France Alumni believes, and for its September cultural tour, we took a group of curious alumni in the streets of this shabby neighbourhood.

On the first days of autumn, Paris felt like it was summertime. Under a clear blue sky, alumni followed their guide Sandra Cominotto, a lecturer in the Carnavalet museum. "Few people know the history of the Goutte-d’Or neighbourhood, and yet it is as interesting as Montmartre" she said. "But the tour of today isn't exclusively focused on the past. You will also see the current changes happening in the neighbourhood."

Long-lasting clichés

The meeting point was at metro station Barbès-Rochechouart, the entry door of the neighbourhood and the Goutte-d’Or and point of contact of many Africans in Paris. The buzzing occurring at this crossroads is a clear contrast with upper-class districts of the capital: you can hear several different languages and the noises never end. A smell of grilled corn fills the air. The group is transported as in a dream in a market in Dakar or Brazzaville. "In Paris, you can go all around the world with only a metro ticket!", says a resident of the neighbourhood to the alumni.

Veronica Moreno, a student in psychoanalysis at the university of Paris-Diderot, seems to be in her environment. "I've been in Paris for only three weeks, but I already know the reputation of the Goutte-d’Or neighbourhood", she says. As a Mexican, I know that stereotypes can hurt working-class neighbourhoods. I prefer to make an opinion by myself, with my own eyes".

Following the steps of Emile Zola

The visit even feels like being in a novel when Sandra Cominotto takes the alumni on the footsteps of Gervaise Macquart, the hero in "L’Assommoir" by Émile Zola. The novel is a clear illustration of what the Goutte-d’Or was in the early 19^th century.

The visit starts Rue des Islettes, on the Assomoir square, which inspired one the central backgrounds of the novel. Not too far away, on the rue de la Goutte-d’Or, the guide opens a carriage gate. She reveals a wide court, similar to the one described by Zola. The book says "Gervaise looked at the entrance, an immense doorway which rose to the height of the second story and made a deep passage, at the end of which was a large courtyard."

Except for the carriage door, the general look of the neighbourhood bears no more reference to Zolian naturalism. In the 80's, the revamping of the city saw to that. But Sandra Cominotto can bring alumni in this era through illustrations of the time, funny stories and historical explanations. "Before 1860, the Goutte-d’Or was out of Paris, you were in the countryside. Most houses were for workers who came to work in the capital city. They were provincials such as Zola's character, then Spaniard, Italians, Poles and in the early 60's Africans".

A "Little Africa" open on the world

The last immigration wave came from Northern Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa and had a major impact on the development of fabric trade in the neighbourhood, an economic activity essential to the 18^th district. "The wax trade is an activity closely linked to the Goutte-d’Or, which gave it the nickname of "Little Africa", says Sandra Cominotto. We say that depending on the patterns, you can trace the geographical origin of the weaver!"

Rue des Gardes, alumni discover an association that transforms this craft in an asset: "Les Gouttes d’or de la mode et du design" (Gold drops of fashion and design). The association was created in 2012 to gather young creators, stylists, designers, tailors, and fabric and accessories traders. Their project is ambitious: to bet on the local production of the fabrics and turn it in a luxury activity open to external markets and boost the economy of the neighbourhood. The showroom of the association promotes the creation of various crafters.

A cooperative was also born for African tailors. Sandra Cominotto led the group to meet Fadel Saloum Ould, one of the tailors, to end the tour. The shop at the crossroad between rue Affre and rue Cave shows no sign, but its reputation has long spread out of Paris. Fadel works for brands like Chanel, Kenzo and Valerian couture. He also makes theatre costumes. The cooperative brought credit to his business, now wanted by American, Australian and Canadian creators.

An unknown human treasure

"The neighbourhood, which has a reputation of being poor and violent, hides a lot of wealth. Its inhabitants are committed and united. It's beautiful to see", says Denise Rodrigues at the end of the visit. The young Brazilian has a degree in communication from the university of Grenoble Alpes, and actively participates in the tours organised by France Alumni. "I take my hat off to those initiatives that allow us, as foreigners, to better understand French history and culture. It gives me a feeling that we are welcome in this country".

 Photos © Samuel Cortès/Animal pensant